Wednesday 24 October 2012

Money Spinning Age UK Richmond Fashion Show


As a catwalk photographer I had the privilege of being the photographer at a charity fashion show in Richmond, North Yorkshire, organized and held on behalf of Age UK on the 17th October 2012

Held in the grand opulence of the ballroom of the Kings Head Hotel Richmond, which in their true tradition they granted free of charge as a contribution to the charity. It turned into a great night with a good turn out from the public and followers.

Fashion was supplied by Erica Dillon Richmond, an interesting ladies boutique located in Finkle Street. I believe they also took a few hundred pounds of sales from the stall they had, so not a bad night all round for Nichola and Lynn who run the business.

A number of other businesses were represented with stalls and even the tombola did well adding to the charity’s takings from the evening.

But most of all it was the models who should take the credit. All amateurs, some showing for the first time. They performed very well – nervous at first, so they reckoned, but really enjoying it as it went on, so much so that I can see me working with some again. A number of Age UK volunteers took part and age or capability was no barrier - well done to them all.

For more photos go to my Facebook page
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.342417939188473.78228.100002608085546&type=3
and website
http://www.gscott-photography.co.uk



Model: Naomi Wright

Model: Sam Brydon

Model: Kat Finn

All models

Model: Naomi Wright

Model: Jemma Turner

Team Talk

Model: Susan Hull with Age UK manager Julie Wright

Susan and Julie on the catwalk

Lynn of the Erica Dillon boutique

Models: Kat Finn and Naomi Wright

Friday 12 October 2012

Fashion Photography Competition Winner

Great news. In the first of the season Angel of Fashion or Angel Light won the advanced class competition at Richmond.



As a fashion photographer this was shot in our photography studio in Darlington. The garments were provided by Isabel Wong Designs and the model was Eliza Tate, make up by Face Makeup Artistry.

Monday 8 October 2012

HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH MUSIC CONCERTS


Photographing action on stage is quite different to any other type of photography, and you will need to practice and practice and even then it may require more practice.
Composing your shot

You’ll have to work very quickly, in very low light, surrounded by other photographers, security and fans.
You’ll need to be confident of your gear and settings and your ability to use the camera.
If you’re anticipating having to change lenses, have the other lens out of your camera bag ready to switch. Some photographers shoot with two cameras, one mounted with a wide-angle lens, the other with a telephoto. 
You also ought to have a spare battery and flash card ready to go at a moment’s notice.
Camera
All concert photographers shoot with a SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera. This is because you need a camera that can be adjusted for a combination of ISO level, aperture and shutter speed. A camera that can handle high ISO levels is preferred. I shoot with a Nikon D3, which I have had for some time, a camera that is one of the best for shooting in low light and capable of high ISO settings with low noise output
Lenses
It all depends on the venue and the light but generally you will need to use fast lenses i.e. with a large aperture of around f2.8 or lower. This should then enable you to use the faster shutter speeds usually needed to capture motion in the low light.
There is a choice between using fixed focal length prime lenses or zoom lenses. Prime lenses tend to be sharper for the price but have the disadvantage of having to change during the shoot. I shoot mainly using a 50mm f1.8 for the mid range, with a 85mm f1.8 for the mid to long range, an 18-24mm f 3.5 for the occasional wide angle shot, and a 135mm f2.8 for the very long. I also have a 100mm macro f3.5 I sometimes call upon.
Flash
It will be rare when you can or should use flash, as this will be off-putting on stage and amongst the crowd. However, it can be sometimes unavoidable, so if you have to use flash use it sparingly and try to bounce off walls so as not to impact on the performers.
Exposure Settings
With a real mix of stage lights in colour and temperature exposure is where the challenge lies for music concert photographers. Evaluative or matrix metering has difficulty handling the mix of lighting so use spot metering. Not surprising with spot metering you will have to be quite exact in setting the focus point to capture sharpness where it is needed in the image. If new and inexperienced try setting in shutter priority at say 1/125sec and experiment with aperture changes.
A fast shutter speed of at least 1/125th second or higher is needed. Zoom lenses may need to shoot at a faster shutter speed, as camera shake can be more evident. At this level even if the image is slightly underexposed it usually can be rescued in postproduction, such as with using Adobe Photoshop.
It is advisable to set the ISO at 800 or higher with a maximum of 1600 but try not to have to go this high. Noise is the problem at high ISO settings so you may have to apply noise reduction in postproduction.
Raw Capture
If your camera is equipped with Raw image capture then use it. This is best for the mix of lighting and will provide for the maximum manipulation allowed in postproduction.
Composing the shot
In the event there’s lots of action around you so take some time out beforehand to prepare and think about what you should look for to compose and set up your shooting.
Take note of the stage, where the clutter is so that you may avoid it spoiling shots.
Watch the performers – all have mannerisms that you might want to take into account and learn to anticipate their actions. For example how does the singer hold the mic or is a guitarist right handed or left handed. Avoid shots where the singer’s face may be obscured by how the mic is held so anticipate when the singer stands back from the mic.
Compose shots in the same way as in any other form of photography. Can you shoot at an angle, does the mic stand produce a diagonal, etc.

Watch for background.  A simple backdrop is best, so position yourself to avoid getting such things as lighting rigs and advertising banners in the shot. Clutter distracts from the focal point of the image. Shots of drummers can be badly affected by the clutter around them so try from the side. 
Try to get a backlight behind the performer. Move around until it’s directly behind. This can give a warm halo effect. Use lighting to produce rim or side lighting or silhouettes.
Sometimes action off the stage is just as interesting. If you can get the performer and crowd in the shot all the better

Try to capture the mood or vibes of the show and respond to it. Glastonbury might have mud and wellington boots as a feature.
Create an atmosphere


Permissions and Etiquette
Obviously being a photographer at a music concert you will need to have the necessary permissions from the organisers. Make sure these are obtained and that you meet and adhere to their requirements.
Be considerate of all others involved at the event: the audience, other photographers and make sure you are communicating with any security people around.
Finally, deliver your photographic images to the best of your ability and for the purpose required by either you or your client.
Post Production
It is not unusual to require some adjustments to the image in postproduction. Keep it to a minimum but it could mean adjusting lightness, colour or contrast through a levels adjustment in Adobe Photoshop, to make sure that the blacks are black and bringing up contrast a bit. Stage lights notoriously produce a red colour cast so try either a curves adjustment or reduce reds using a colour balance adjustment.  If the red is too much of a problem try converting to black & white.

HOW TO POSE FOR A FASHION PHOTO


As a fashion photographer I know how important the model makes a photo. All models I have worked with have some natural ability and the more experienced have already learned some of the techniques. I have jotted down here some of the basics.
Creating a fluid pose

  • The minimum that we are looking for is a fluid look, a curved appearance to the full length shape and a V to the upper half of the body.
  • So, don’t do full frontal! Look to create a ¾ pose where you turn the hips away from the camera then turn the shoulders slightly back towards the camera. This will slim the look of the body.
  • If you are standing rest your weight on the back foot and angle the head slightly. This should create a curve to the pose. But watch where the feet are placed not to have them at right angles to the camera.
  • If you’re sitting, turn slightly to one side or the other. Doing so angles the body, tips the shoulders a little and angles the head just a bit. It adds dimension and looks more interesting.
  • Lean slightly toward the camera. It adds interest, dimension and looks natural, too.
  • Raise the chin slightly to lengthen the neck and to eliminate any tendency to a double chin or if the face has any heaviness to it. However be careful that the camera is not looking up your nostrils.
  • Don’t hang you arms down by your sides. Women in particular can be vulnerable to the fat arm appearance so hands on hips or move arms further away or to the back is the answer.
  • Learn to smile. I don’t mean a big gaping smile that shows the gums and teeth but learn what pose shows your best look and look to smile with your eyes. You might achieve this by thinking happy thoughts – some people might laugh at this but that’s precisely what we are trying to achieve.
  • Finally, relax and be yourself. Follow the photographer’s directions but don’t allow yourself to be intimidated. Try to contribute to making the pose the photographer is looking for

In our Darlington studio we are running more workshops for model to develop these skills together with catwalk exposure in an environment where you can learn without the pressure of the real event. 

HOW TO SOFTEN FRECKLES IN PHOTOSHOP

When we do our makeover shoots some clients like to have strong make-up applied and for a couple of hours feel a different person and some want a softer approach and just enhance their natural features.

Retaining a freckled complexion
For me freckles have a natural attractiveness, being of that skin colour myself. But some express their self-consciousness and ask what we do to cover over without it appearing to be overdone.

First we apply the make-up with a small amount of foundation and in near neutral colours only to enhance skin complexion and with eye shadow and lip colour to correspond. We will apply colour to bring out facial contours for example the cheekbones. This is certainly best done in the comfort of our make-up facility in our Darlington studio.

However we will generally finish off a photo in Photoshop and here is the method I use.

The purpose is not to remove the freckles altogether, after all it they are a natural feature and not altogether a bad one. So this technique aims to reduce the dominance of the freckles allowing the underlying structure of the face to come through. We are seeking to retain enough of the original look of the face rather than an overworked appearance.

Sampling Colour

Select the Eyedropper tool and check to see that the Sample Size (in the options bar) is set to average 3x3 or 5x5 pixels. Choose a part of the face to be brushed and click to select a colour of the skin to be applied. This will appear as a foreground colour

Brush Blend
Select the Brush tool and change the blend mode to Lighten, selecting the mode from the drop- down Mode list in the tool’s option bar. When the brush is in the Lighten mode Photoshop compares the paint colour with the pixels being painted over. Only the pixels that are darker are replaced with the paint colour, effectively lightening the area.

Opacity Change

In the options bar reduce the opacity. I prefer to reduce it to quite a low percentage, say 10%, and gradually cover over the area. Whatever you choose a setting of 100% would produce a result that was too smooth. Reducing the opacity allows a little of the old freckle texture to show through, maintaining the feeling of realism while reducing the freckles’ dominance.

Working over small areas depending on the shade and colour tone paint over the freckles until each part is to your liking.

Another way of lightening a face is to copy the image layer, change the blend mode to Screen and then reduce the opacity of the layer to say 40%, or whatever looks best, bringing back some of the original. Apply a layer mask to the Screen layer and using a black brush on the white background of the mask bring back the original or darker areas you want such as hair and clothing.




HOW TO GET STARTED AS A PHOTOGRAPHIC MODEL

photographic model is like any other performer and what gets them work is evidence of their previous work, a display of what they can do. The performers portfolio, sometimes called their work book is crucial to getting through the first door in being considered for a job.


The model with lots of photos showing the same look time after time is making a big mistake.

So what would I advise?

First, decide what type of modeling to focus on. It determines the images to be included and better to be focused than just any image that happens to look good. Don’t leave it to an agent or. You must present yourself for the purpose required.



Look at the following list and select five areas from it: -



·      Headshot

·      Full length - fashion or formal

·      Full length - casual

·      Editorial (specifically shot for a magazine cover or article)

·      Interactive (with another model)
·      In Character
·      Beauty/Glamour
·      Environmental or outdoor
·      Head shots with light to no make-up on
·      Figure showing (Shapely clothing/Swimwear/Underwear/Lingerie)
·      Mood (showing a particular emotion/mood)
·      Handling an object
·      Others to personalise the portfolio

A portfolio should include about 8 to 12 good images that represent the type of modeling you wish to pursue and then you should change and update these every so often or when you go for particular jobs.

A portfolio should focus on the three “F”s: Face, Figure and Fashion.  We would aim to produce two images in each of the five chosen areas but usually to include two headshots showing different expressions, two full length shots and two figure showing shots. From the other choices in the list an Interactive shot is useful and either In Character or Mood.

Images tend to be produced in digital form now but it is still useful to have a printed portfolio in 12”x9” print size

Of course there is one last thing: like in every walk of life rewards come to those with hard work and dedication, no substitute – ask any top model!

At our Darlington studio we advise models on the best portfolio, can provide training and give experience by performing at our fashion shows.